Facial Make-up & Foundations

Due to popular demand…

Facial Make-up and Foundations: what to watch out for

According to Steinman & Epstein’s consumer guide to nontoxic household products, cosmetics and food “The Safe Shopper’s Bible”, make-up including foundations is the third most frequent cause of contact dermatitis among its users. The many problem ingredients include:

- 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (formaldehyde releaser)
- quaternium 15 (formaldehyde releaser)
- fragrances/perfumes (potential allergens)
- propylene glycol (petroleum-based skin irritant and penetration enhancer)
- TEA/DEA triethanolamine/diethanolamine (irritant; can form carcinogenic nitrosamines)
- lanolin (possible allergen for sensitive skin due to contamination with pesticides)
- padimate-O (often used as a sunscreen; can form carcinogenic nitrosamines)
- parabens (preservatives that can mimic oestrogen)

Please refer to “Overview of Unsafe and Suspect Cosmetic Ingredients” for further details on all of the above.

Foundation is also the frequent cause of a condition called “cosmetic acne” (small and intermittently occuring spots and blemishes), which affects about one third of all women at some point in their life. Cosmetic acne has nothing to do with puberty-related acne from which many teenagers suffer. It is, in fact, caused by certain so-called acnegenic ingredients used in facial make-up, as listed below:

Ingredient/Cosmetic Acne Potential:

Butyl stearate/moderate to strong
Cocoa butter/strong
Corn oil/weak to moderate
Isopropyl myristate/weak
Lauryl alcohol/weak
Linseed oil/strong
Margarine/weak
Methyl oleate/weak to moderate
Mineral oil/weak to moderate
Oleic acid/strong
Olive oil/moderate to strong
Peanut oil/moderate to strong
Petrolatum/weak to strong
Safflower oil/weak
Sesame oil/moderate to strong
Stearic acid/weak

So if your face shows unsightly pimples, have a look at what your foundation is made up of. Foundations may also contain silica or talc, which are, however, said to represent a minimal risk as long as they are part of a cream or liquid and not in powder form that could be inhaled.

Alternative recommendations:
Steinman & Epstein consider foundation by Dr. Hauschka and Logona as relatively safe (see “Suppliers of Natural & Organic Cosmetics”). Logona make-up fluid was also rated as “very good” by the German consumer magazine “Öko-Test”, which evaluates a range of consumer products every month (it is similar to the American publication “Consumer Reports”). But it's worth checking out other manufacturers’ products that are available in the UK – you can either do that online as almost all manufacturers of natural products list ingredients on their websites or by visiting your local health food store.

Steinman & Epstein’s health advisory ratings for many conventional foundations, including products by Avon, Chanel, Clarion, Clinique, Cover Girl, Estee Lauder, Max Factor, Maybelline and Revlon, ranged from “minimal risk” to “caution”.

© Manuela Hübner, 2007

What you can do to protect yourself

All of us use cosmetic and personal care products on a daily basis. And consequently all of us are exposed to many harmful chemicals contained in conventional cosmetic products. On average we use 9 different products a day, even if we limit ourselves to the absolute basics. It starts with toothpaste, face cream and deodorant in the morning. If you take a shower, then you are likely to use shower gel, shampoo, possibly conditioner and body lotion afterwards. That already makes it six. To style your hair, you might also dip into gel, wax or styling cream of some description. Most of us probably add a squirt of perfume or a splash of after-shave as well. Throughout the day you might wash your hands several times in different places, each time using a different soap, and maybe even hand cream. And if you are a woman, then you can add all your make-up bag contents on top of that.
Those average 9 personal care products we use daily contain an average of 120 ingredients, 90% of which have never undergone a full safety assessment as either individual substances or in combination with others*. Some substances have already been tested extensively and shown carcinogenic (cancer-inducing), neurotoxic (damaging the nervous system) or tetragenic (causing birth defects) effects. In spite of that evidence they are still allowed to be used and thus frequently incorporated into a wide range of cosmetics.
Your skin cannot defend itself against these untested and potentially hazardous or definitely dangerous chemicals, which penetrate the skin and are absorbed by the body.
Since legislation does not provide sufficient protection for consumers, you have to act yourself if you want to avoid unnecessary health risks.

Here are a few things you can do:

- Get informed and find out which ingredients and products to avoid.

- Read all labels and ingredient lists carefully and familiarise yourself with the terminology so that you fully understand them.

- Ask yourself before each purchase if you really need this product; if you already have five different perfumes or creams, another one seems unnecessary. On the whole, try to buy fewer products. The fewer products you use, the fewer chemicals you are exposed to and the smaller the likelihood of any adverse chemical reactions or interactions between different products and ingredients.

-When you buy cosmetics and personal care products, choose those with the shortest ingredients lists (obviously after having checked that the ingredients are safe). The longer the list, the higher the possibility of chemical interactions between the different ingredients and the higher the likelihood that you may suffer adverse reactions.

- Ignore hyped-up marketing campaigns for specific products or brands. Particularly statements like “scientifically proven” or “results in only 10 days” are to be treated with caution. To sell their products many manufacturers only emphasise the few beneficial ingredients, without mentioning the multitude of potentially harmful ones. Moreover, much of the product testing that is carried out by manufacturers themselves only spans a limited period of time and includes a relatively small and thus not really representative number of test people.

- Do a patch test before applying the product to your entire face or body to ensure you are not allergic to it. These days many shops offer testers or samples, so you could even carry out a patch test before actually buying the product. All you need to do is apply a small quantity of the product to the inside of your arm, cover it with a plaster and leave it for about 24 hours. If your skin becomes red, sore or itchy, you might be sensitive to the product.

- Try to use less of the products you buy. Quite often we use more than we actually need for a specific purpose. Take for example toothpaste: Most people squeeze up to an inch of toothpaste onto their toothbrush and cover the entire toothbrush head. Yet, only a fraction of that (a blob the size of a pea) is sufficient to clean your teeth properly. And it’s worth remembering that the cleanness of your teeth depends less on the amount and type of toothpaste you use than on the thoroughness and regularity of the brushing. Another product which is often used too generously is shower gel. Again you only need a small amount and sometimes you can even forego it altogether: Unless you have a physically demanding job where you sweat profusely or work with soiling materials, you are not really dirty – especially if you shower every day. You can easily wash off that little bit of “office grime” with pure water and a good loofah! It’s also better for your skin’s ph-level.

- If you know how, make your own cosmetic products (a good source of raw materials is available from Aromantic, see www.aromantic.co.uk).

- Since many alternative products use natural, plant-based ingredients und milder preservatives, their shelf-life might not be as long as that of synthetic products. This also means that you might have to handle them with more care to prevent bacterial contamination, e.g. by keeping the containers securely closed, not sharing your products and using applicators instead of your fingers. Natural products should always be stored in a cool place because heat and direct sunlight encourage the proliferation of bacteria. The good thing is that unlike most conventional cosmetics many natural products have use-by dates.

- If you suffer adverse reactions to any products you use, inform the manufacturer accordingly.

- If your local stores stock unsafe products, you might want to bring this to their attention and challenge them to offer safer alternatives.

- Make other people aware of the dangers of many conventional cosmetic products and encourage them to protect themselves and inform others. If more and more people demand and buy safer products, stockists and ultimately manufacturers will have to react and increase the safety of their products.


* Figures from: The Ecologist http://www.theecologist/archive_detail.asp?content_id=527

© Manuela Hübner, 2007

Overview: Unsafe and Suspect Cosmetic Ingredients

The good news is that there are alternative products for most cosmetics, which contain any of the chemicals listed below - see article "Suppliers of Natural and Organic Cosmetics & Personal Care Products".

NB: Recent additions to the original text will be highlighted in blue. If you would like further information on an ingredient not listed here, feel free to contact me via the comments function and I'll be happy to consult my collection of literature and get back to you.

• 1,4-Dioxane (and Ethoxylated Alcohols): 1,4-Dioxane was one of the main ingredients of the chemical defoliant “Agent Orange” used in the Vietnam War. 1,4-Dioxane can penetrate the skin, affect the body’s hormonal balance and is carcinogenic. Ingredients most likely to be contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane include substances with the following names or letters: PEG (see below), Polyethylene, Polyethylene Glycol (see below), Polyoxyethylene, eth (e.g. Sodium Laureth Sulfate, see below), oxynol or even Polysorbate 60 and 80. Manufacturers could easily remove this chemical from many cosmetics through a process called “vacuum stripping”, which is, however and unfortunately, not mandatory.
• AHA (a-hydroxy or Alpha Hydroxy Acid): In the quest for an eternally youthful appearance, AHAs are often used in skin peelings and face creams as they are claimed to reduce the signs of ageing like wrinkles and age spots – however, with unwanted side-effects. The adverse reactions to AHAs include burning, blistering, rashes, itching and skin discolorations (I’m living proof of the latter!). Furthermore, they increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, especially UV (ultraviolet) radiation, thus raising the risk of sunburns, photo ageing and skin cancer. The relative newness of AHAs, especially as a cosmetic ingredient, means that most of its long-term effects are as yet unknown.
• Aluminium (e.g. aluminium chlorohydrate as found in underarm deodorants): Aluminium seals the skin's pores, prevents sweat production and stops the skin from breathing properly and discharging toxins. Aluminium can enter the bloodstream via the skin and has been linked to Alzheimer and breast cancer.
• Ammonia/Ammonium: used in conventional hair dyes; it is toxic and a severe irritant to the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. It can cause a runny nose, coughing and breathing difficulties as well as skin irritation and possibly skin cancer.
• Artificial Colours: Some artificial colours are carcinogenic, including CI 42090 (Blue 1), Green 3, CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow 5), CI 15985 (FD&C Yellow 6) and CI 17200 (D&C Red 33). Also avoid anything with so-called coal tar colours, as they contain toxic metals and substances like arsenic and lead.
• BHA (b-hydroxy or Beta Hydroxy Acid): see AHA
• Bronopol (also known as 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol): see Formaldehyde Releasers. Bronopol can also form carcinogenic nitrosamines (see Dietheanolamine, DEA).
• Collagen: a protein sourced from the connective tissue in animals. It cannot permeate the skin but seals it like an impermeable layer.
• Diethanolamine, DEA (found in many skincare products): DEA (see also TEA) is often used in both natural and conventional cosmetics, often bound to other compounds (e.g. Cocamide DEA or Lauramide DEA). DEA in itself is not carcinogenic but if it comes into contact with nitrites, which are often used as preservatives, DEA can chemically react with them and form the so-called nitrosamines, most of which are cancer-inducing. It is difficult to tell whether products containing DEA are contaminated with nitrosamines because the use of nitrites is not always mentioned on ingredients lists or labels. Furthermore, DEA (like TEA) can be an irritant to the skin and mucous membranes. So if you want to be absolutely on the safe side, avoid products with DEA altogether.
• Elastin: similar to Collagen (see above).
• Ethoxylated Alcohols: see 1,4-Dioxane.- Fluoride: Fluoride (often found in toothpaste) has been officially classified as a toxin by the American Environmental Protection Agency. It is said to cause cancer faster and more frequently than any other substances. In Belgium all toothpastes containing fluoride have been banned.
• Formaldehyde releasers like Bronidox, Bronopol, Diazolidinyl-Imidazolidinyl-Urea, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl-Urea, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 2,4-Imiazolidinedione, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane (often found in nail products). These substances can release or break down into formaldehyde.
• Lanolin: Lanolin itself is absolutely safe and also beneficial to irritated and cracked skin, but it can be contaminated with cancer-inducing pesticides like DDT, dieldrin and lindane and neurotoxic (affecting the nervous system) pesticides like diazinon. Sixteen different pesticides were found in lanolin during tests in 1988. These chemicals can go through the skin and into the bloodstream. The safest option is probably to choose products with certified organic lanolin.
• Padimate-0 (also known as Octyl Dimethyl PABA): found in cosmetics like sun cream. It can form carcinogenic nitrosamines in chemical reactions with nitrites (see Diethanolamine, DEA).
• Parabens (e.g. Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben): These widely used preservatives are controversial as they can mimic the hormone oestrogen, which is linked to breast cancer. Many alternative products are paraben-free.
• Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil): Seals the skin like an impermeable film. Moisture and toxins cannot escape and the skin cannot breathe properly as oxygen is stopped from permeating the skin. Many alternative products are free from petrochemicals.
• Perfume: Apart from being the frequent cause of allergies, irritation and sensitisation, perfumes – which are made to 95% from synthetic chemicals – have proven carcinogenic (cancer-inducing) and tetragenic (birth-defect causing) in tests on animals. These substances can accumulate in the body and can even be found in breast milk. Many chemicals used in perfumes are designated hazardous, e.g. methylene chloride, toluene, methyl ehtyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, ethyl alcohol and benzyl chloride, but there is no legal requirement for the manufacturers to list the ingredients used to formulate their fragrances. It seems that about 84% of fragrance ingredients have never been tested for human toxicity or only to a minimal extent. (Figures from “The Safe Shopper’s Bible”, Steinman & Epstein).
• PEG (see Polyethylene Glycol)
• Petrolatum (Vaseline): Another petrochemical like Paraffinum liquidum (see above).
• Phenylenediamine (p-/para-/1,4-phenylenediamine, also called PPD, or m-phenylenediamine): used as a dye in hair colourants and sometimes also in tattoo ink. No or little information is available on the carcinogenic effects of phenylenediamines in humans but it can have acute and chronic effects like dermatitis, eye irritation, asthma, gastritis, renal failure, vertigo, tremors, convulsions an even coma in humans.
• Phthalates (pronounced THA-lates, e.g. Diethylphthalat): Industrially, phthalates are used as plasticizers (substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility). They are often used as plasticizers in nail polish, hair spray, soaps and shampoo or to make scent last longer in perfumes or other fragrances. They can be absorbed by the skin and affect the skin’s natural protective mechanism. Phthalates are suspected to damage the liver, kidneys and reproductive organs and to act like a hormone.
• Polyethylene Glycol (e.g. Copolyol, Polyglycol, Polysorbate, substances with the letters "PEG" or "eth" followed by a number, e.g. Ceteareth-33): Polyethylene glycol increases the permeability of the skin, thereby allowing not only beneficial substances but also toxins to permeate the skin and enter the body. Its production requires ethylenoxide, which is highly reactive and potentially carcinogenic.
• Propylene Glycol: This is a petroleum-based solvent, which can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Like Polyethylene Glycol, it is a penetration enhancer, which alters the skin structure and allows chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin and thus enter the bloodstream.
• Resorcinol: Used in hair dyes, resorcinol is an allergen (allergy-causing substance) and an irritant to eyes and skin. It may interfere with the hormone balance and cause damage to the liver, thyroids and central nervous system, the effects including dizziness, nausea, heart beat irregularities and restlessness.
• Silica: Silica used in cosmetics (especially amorphous hydrated silica) may be contaminated with crystalline quartz, which is carcinogenic. It is, however, difficult to tell whether silica used in cosmetics does indeed contain small quantities of crystalline quartz. Like talc (see below), contaminated silica is dangerous when inhaled, which might happen when the product is in powder form (e.g. loose face powders). So far the scientific data on the carcinogenicity of silica, especially the amorphous type, is inadequate. If you want to be absolutely on the safe side, avoid it.
• Sodium Fluoride: often found in toothpaste and potentially carcinogenic
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate: see 1,4-Dioxane.
• Sunscreens like 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidencampher), OMC (Octyl-methoxycinnamat), Bp-3 (Benzophenon-3). Bp-3 is suspected to have similar effects to the hormone oestrogen. Traces of UV filters have already been found in human breast milk and the organs of fish.
• Talc: Cosmetic talc can cause cancer, especially when inhaled and used on certain parts of the body (e.g. when used around the face or in the genital region, where it poses an increased risk of ovarian cancer in women). Talc should never be used on babies because apart from being carcinogenic, it can also cause acute breathing problems.
  Note that talc in powder form is particularly dangerous, as it can be inhaled; if talc is part of a cream or lotion, i.e. not loose but solid, it is said to be relatively safe. There are alternative body powders, which use corn starch and oat flour instead of talc and are thus talc-free. But always check the ingredients list because sometimes these alternative body powders contain silica (see Silica above).
• Triethanolamine, TEA: See Diethanolamine, DEA.

Sources:
- “The Safe Shopper’s Bible”, Steinman & Epstein
- "Wenn das Shampoo krank macht" by J. Harmening & Gabriela Haas, http://www.zeitschrift.com/magazin/40-kosmetik.ihtml
- Organic Consumers Association, http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/paraben011304.cfm
- US Food and Drug Administration, www.fda.org
- US Environmental Protection Agency, http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/phenylen.html
- Canadian Cancer Society, http://www.cancer.ca/ccs/internet/standard/0,3182,3172_1706523966__langId-en,00.html
- The Ecologist, http://www.theecologist.org/archive_detail.asp?content_id=870
- Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phthalates (for chemical definitions only)

© Manuela Hübner, 2007

Sources of Information about Cosmetics & Health

Weblinks

• http://www.fda.org/ (US Food and Drug Administration; gives information and research results about cosmetics amongst other subjects)
• http://www.ctpa.org/ (this is an organisation representing cosmetic and personal care companies in the UK so it is bound to be slightly "biased" but a good source of information about cosmetic regulations in the UK)
• http://www.theecologist.org/ (monthly periodical with regular beauty product reviews)
• http://www.preventcancer.com/ (the Prevent Cancer Coalition aims to stop the rise of cancer as the biggest killer in the world by providing free information to consumers; here you will find a list of carcinogenic cosmetic ingredients you should avoid)
• http://www.safecosmetics.org/ (US organisation)
• http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/ – The working group "Skindeep" offers excellent online search facilities for ingredients and products.
• http://www.mindfully.org/ – Covers a range of subjects from climate, food and health to nuclear energy, plastics and sustainability.
• http://www.greenpeace.org.uk/ – under “Toxics”, “The Problems”, “Hazardous Chemicals”

Publications:

• A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetics Ingredients, Ruth Winter (Three Rivers Press, 2005)
• Beauty to Die For, Judi Vance
• Don’t Go to the Counter without Me, Paula Begoun
• Dying to Look Good: The Disturbing Truth About What’s Really in Your Cosmetics, Toiletries and Personal Care Products, Christine Hoza Farlow
• Ökotest: If you speak German, you might want to look into subscribing to this most excellent German consumer magazine, which regularly tests, compares and reviews a variety of consumer products. See http://www.oekotest.de/ for details.
• The Ecologist: Environmental affairs magazine, which reports on a multitude of ecological and also health-related issues. Particularly interesting is the regular feature "Behind the Label".
• The Safe Shopper's Bible, A Consumer's Guide to Nontoxic Household Products, Cosmetics and Food, David Steinman & Samuel S. Epstein (Wiley Publishing, Inc., 1995)
  NB: This book was written as a guide for the US-American consumer and consequently reviews products which are available on the US market. A large number of these goods are, however, international brands, which are also distributed in the UK. The book also contains a lot of universally valid information on ingredients and health risks.
• Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary, Natalia Michalun
  
  To be extended.

When Skincare becomes Skinscare

Here’s a question for you: What is the body’s largest organ?
No, not the heart. Nor the kidney or the liver. Look back at the title of the article, there’s a clue!

The body’s largest organ is, in fact, the skin. It has a mass of 4-5 kg and a surface area of 1.2 - 2.2 square metres – obviously depending on your size. Most of us take great care of our skin: we nourish it with creams and lotions and try to embellish it with decorative cosmetics in the hope of improving its condition, appearance and health. So we go out and buy personal care products which claim to contain beneficial ingredients, and yes, they may indeed contain one or two substances with proven beneficial effects, yet most mainstream cosmetics also contain at least the same number of ingredients which can cause anything from allergies, eczema and irritation of the eyes and mucous membranes to respiratory problems, malfunctions of the nervous system and in some cases even cancer.

The majority of conventional cosmetics and skincare products we use on a daily basis (body lotions, face creams, deodorants, talcum powder, lipstick, perfumes, basically the lot!) contain so-called petrochemicals. These are synthetic chemicals derived from mineral oil, which no one would voluntarily apply if they knew what they were actually slapping on their skin and – since skin is permeable – feeding into their body’s system.

If you think you are less at risk because you are a man and don’t use half of the products listed above, think again! Even shampoo and shower gel or toothpaste and mouthwash contain potentially harmful substances.

Unfortunately, the cosmetics industry is one of the least regulated industries, not just in the UK but world-wide, which explains why certain chemicals are still being used despite scientific evidence of their adverse effects. So what can you do to ensure real skincare since regulatory bodies fail to do their job?

You can start by getting informed about which substances to avoid. There are countless sources of information, both online and in print, which are dedicated to educating consumers and guide them through the jungle of ingredients and products (see list below).

It is quite a scary and frustrating experience to go through your bathroom and discover that your most cherished products are in the true sense of the word “poison”. Yet, not everything needs to be binned straightaway. The best approach is to check the ingredients lists for the so-called carcinogens (cancer-inducing substances) and discard products containing those. Cosmetics which contain allergens (allergy-causing chemicals) can be used up, provided you don’t show any allergic reactions to them, although a continued use might increase your body’s tolerance level for such substances.

Long-term it is probably safest to change to healthier and natural alternatives, which you can find in your local health food stores or buy directly online from the manufacturers.

Wise up and take care of yourself because no one else is going to do it for you. And if you care about your nearest and dearest, raise their awareness too. This is an avoidable health risk and, to put it in the words of one of the main culprits, you’re worth it!

DROP DEAD GORGEOUS? HIDDEN CARCINOGEN CHECK LIST

Contaminants
DIOXANE (in PEG, POLYSORBATE, LAURETHS, ETHOXYLATED ALCOHOLS)CRYSTALLINE SILICA (in AMORPHOUS SILICATES)

Nitrosamine Precursors
DEA, TEA, BRONOPOL, PADIMATE O

Formaldehyde Releasers
BRONOPOL, QUATERNIUM 15, DIAZOLIDINYL or IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA, DMDM HYDANTOIN

Overt Carcinogens
DEA, TALC, FLUORIDE, SACCHARIN, CRYSTALLINE SILICA, COAL TAR DYES, BLUE 1, GREEN 3PHENYLENEDIAMINE

Useful sources of information:

Websites:

• www.preventcancer.com – The Prevent Cancer Coalition
• www.safecosmetics.org – The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
• www.cosmeticdatabase.com – Skindeep
• www.greenpeace.org.uk – see Toxics, The Problems, Hazardous Chemicals
• www.theecologist.org – a monthly periodical (also available in print)

Publications:

• A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetics Ingredients, Ruth Winter
• Beauty to Die For, Judi Vance
• Don’t Go to the Counter without Me, Paula Begoun
• Dying to Look Good: The Disturbing Truth About What’s Really in Your Cosmetics, -Toiletries and Personal Care Products, Christine Hoza Farlow
• The Safe Shopper's Bible, A Consumer's Guide to Nontoxic Household Products, Cosmetics and Food, David Steinman & Samuel S. Epstein
  
  © Manuela Hübner, 2007