Overview: Unsafe and Suspect Cosmetic Ingredients

The good news is that there are alternative products for most cosmetics, which contain any of the chemicals listed below - see article "Suppliers of Natural and Organic Cosmetics & Personal Care Products".

NB: Recent additions to the original text will be highlighted in blue. If you would like further information on an ingredient not listed here, feel free to contact me via the comments function and I'll be happy to consult my collection of literature and get back to you.

• 1,4-Dioxane (and Ethoxylated Alcohols): 1,4-Dioxane was one of the main ingredients of the chemical defoliant “Agent Orange” used in the Vietnam War. 1,4-Dioxane can penetrate the skin, affect the body’s hormonal balance and is carcinogenic. Ingredients most likely to be contaminated with 1,4-Dioxane include substances with the following names or letters: PEG (see below), Polyethylene, Polyethylene Glycol (see below), Polyoxyethylene, eth (e.g. Sodium Laureth Sulfate, see below), oxynol or even Polysorbate 60 and 80. Manufacturers could easily remove this chemical from many cosmetics through a process called “vacuum stripping”, which is, however and unfortunately, not mandatory.
• AHA (a-hydroxy or Alpha Hydroxy Acid): In the quest for an eternally youthful appearance, AHAs are often used in skin peelings and face creams as they are claimed to reduce the signs of ageing like wrinkles and age spots – however, with unwanted side-effects. The adverse reactions to AHAs include burning, blistering, rashes, itching and skin discolorations (I’m living proof of the latter!). Furthermore, they increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, especially UV (ultraviolet) radiation, thus raising the risk of sunburns, photo ageing and skin cancer. The relative newness of AHAs, especially as a cosmetic ingredient, means that most of its long-term effects are as yet unknown.
• Aluminium (e.g. aluminium chlorohydrate as found in underarm deodorants): Aluminium seals the skin's pores, prevents sweat production and stops the skin from breathing properly and discharging toxins. Aluminium can enter the bloodstream via the skin and has been linked to Alzheimer and breast cancer.
• Ammonia/Ammonium: used in conventional hair dyes; it is toxic and a severe irritant to the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. It can cause a runny nose, coughing and breathing difficulties as well as skin irritation and possibly skin cancer.
• Artificial Colours: Some artificial colours are carcinogenic, including CI 42090 (Blue 1), Green 3, CI 19140 (FD&C Yellow 5), CI 15985 (FD&C Yellow 6) and CI 17200 (D&C Red 33). Also avoid anything with so-called coal tar colours, as they contain toxic metals and substances like arsenic and lead.
• BHA (b-hydroxy or Beta Hydroxy Acid): see AHA
• Bronopol (also known as 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol): see Formaldehyde Releasers. Bronopol can also form carcinogenic nitrosamines (see Dietheanolamine, DEA).
• Collagen: a protein sourced from the connective tissue in animals. It cannot permeate the skin but seals it like an impermeable layer.
• Diethanolamine, DEA (found in many skincare products): DEA (see also TEA) is often used in both natural and conventional cosmetics, often bound to other compounds (e.g. Cocamide DEA or Lauramide DEA). DEA in itself is not carcinogenic but if it comes into contact with nitrites, which are often used as preservatives, DEA can chemically react with them and form the so-called nitrosamines, most of which are cancer-inducing. It is difficult to tell whether products containing DEA are contaminated with nitrosamines because the use of nitrites is not always mentioned on ingredients lists or labels. Furthermore, DEA (like TEA) can be an irritant to the skin and mucous membranes. So if you want to be absolutely on the safe side, avoid products with DEA altogether.
• Elastin: similar to Collagen (see above).
• Ethoxylated Alcohols: see 1,4-Dioxane.- Fluoride: Fluoride (often found in toothpaste) has been officially classified as a toxin by the American Environmental Protection Agency. It is said to cause cancer faster and more frequently than any other substances. In Belgium all toothpastes containing fluoride have been banned.
• Formaldehyde releasers like Bronidox, Bronopol, Diazolidinyl-Imidazolidinyl-Urea, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl-Urea, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 2,4-Imiazolidinedione, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane (often found in nail products). These substances can release or break down into formaldehyde.
• Lanolin: Lanolin itself is absolutely safe and also beneficial to irritated and cracked skin, but it can be contaminated with cancer-inducing pesticides like DDT, dieldrin and lindane and neurotoxic (affecting the nervous system) pesticides like diazinon. Sixteen different pesticides were found in lanolin during tests in 1988. These chemicals can go through the skin and into the bloodstream. The safest option is probably to choose products with certified organic lanolin.
• Padimate-0 (also known as Octyl Dimethyl PABA): found in cosmetics like sun cream. It can form carcinogenic nitrosamines in chemical reactions with nitrites (see Diethanolamine, DEA).
• Parabens (e.g. Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben): These widely used preservatives are controversial as they can mimic the hormone oestrogen, which is linked to breast cancer. Many alternative products are paraben-free.
• Paraffinum liquidum (mineral oil): Seals the skin like an impermeable film. Moisture and toxins cannot escape and the skin cannot breathe properly as oxygen is stopped from permeating the skin. Many alternative products are free from petrochemicals.
• Perfume: Apart from being the frequent cause of allergies, irritation and sensitisation, perfumes – which are made to 95% from synthetic chemicals – have proven carcinogenic (cancer-inducing) and tetragenic (birth-defect causing) in tests on animals. These substances can accumulate in the body and can even be found in breast milk. Many chemicals used in perfumes are designated hazardous, e.g. methylene chloride, toluene, methyl ehtyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, ethyl alcohol and benzyl chloride, but there is no legal requirement for the manufacturers to list the ingredients used to formulate their fragrances. It seems that about 84% of fragrance ingredients have never been tested for human toxicity or only to a minimal extent. (Figures from “The Safe Shopper’s Bible”, Steinman & Epstein).
• PEG (see Polyethylene Glycol)
• Petrolatum (Vaseline): Another petrochemical like Paraffinum liquidum (see above).
• Phenylenediamine (p-/para-/1,4-phenylenediamine, also called PPD, or m-phenylenediamine): used as a dye in hair colourants and sometimes also in tattoo ink. No or little information is available on the carcinogenic effects of phenylenediamines in humans but it can have acute and chronic effects like dermatitis, eye irritation, asthma, gastritis, renal failure, vertigo, tremors, convulsions an even coma in humans.
• Phthalates (pronounced THA-lates, e.g. Diethylphthalat): Industrially, phthalates are used as plasticizers (substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility). They are often used as plasticizers in nail polish, hair spray, soaps and shampoo or to make scent last longer in perfumes or other fragrances. They can be absorbed by the skin and affect the skin’s natural protective mechanism. Phthalates are suspected to damage the liver, kidneys and reproductive organs and to act like a hormone.
• Polyethylene Glycol (e.g. Copolyol, Polyglycol, Polysorbate, substances with the letters "PEG" or "eth" followed by a number, e.g. Ceteareth-33): Polyethylene glycol increases the permeability of the skin, thereby allowing not only beneficial substances but also toxins to permeate the skin and enter the body. Its production requires ethylenoxide, which is highly reactive and potentially carcinogenic.
• Propylene Glycol: This is a petroleum-based solvent, which can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Like Polyethylene Glycol, it is a penetration enhancer, which alters the skin structure and allows chemicals to penetrate deeper into the skin and thus enter the bloodstream.
• Resorcinol: Used in hair dyes, resorcinol is an allergen (allergy-causing substance) and an irritant to eyes and skin. It may interfere with the hormone balance and cause damage to the liver, thyroids and central nervous system, the effects including dizziness, nausea, heart beat irregularities and restlessness.
• Silica: Silica used in cosmetics (especially amorphous hydrated silica) may be contaminated with crystalline quartz, which is carcinogenic. It is, however, difficult to tell whether silica used in cosmetics does indeed contain small quantities of crystalline quartz. Like talc (see below), contaminated silica is dangerous when inhaled, which might happen when the product is in powder form (e.g. loose face powders). So far the scientific data on the carcinogenicity of silica, especially the amorphous type, is inadequate. If you want to be absolutely on the safe side, avoid it.
• Sodium Fluoride: often found in toothpaste and potentially carcinogenic
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate: see 1,4-Dioxane.
• Sunscreens like 4-MBC (4-Methylbenzylidencampher), OMC (Octyl-methoxycinnamat), Bp-3 (Benzophenon-3). Bp-3 is suspected to have similar effects to the hormone oestrogen. Traces of UV filters have already been found in human breast milk and the organs of fish.
• Talc: Cosmetic talc can cause cancer, especially when inhaled and used on certain parts of the body (e.g. when used around the face or in the genital region, where it poses an increased risk of ovarian cancer in women). Talc should never be used on babies because apart from being carcinogenic, it can also cause acute breathing problems.
  Note that talc in powder form is particularly dangerous, as it can be inhaled; if talc is part of a cream or lotion, i.e. not loose but solid, it is said to be relatively safe. There are alternative body powders, which use corn starch and oat flour instead of talc and are thus talc-free. But always check the ingredients list because sometimes these alternative body powders contain silica (see Silica above).
• Triethanolamine, TEA: See Diethanolamine, DEA.

Sources:
- “The Safe Shopper’s Bible”, Steinman & Epstein
- "Wenn das Shampoo krank macht" by J. Harmening & Gabriela Haas, http://www.zeitschrift.com/magazin/40-kosmetik.ihtml
- Organic Consumers Association, http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/paraben011304.cfm
- US Food and Drug Administration, www.fda.org
- US Environmental Protection Agency, http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/phenylen.html
- Canadian Cancer Society, http://www.cancer.ca/ccs/internet/standard/0,3182,3172_1706523966__langId-en,00.html
- The Ecologist, http://www.theecologist.org/archive_detail.asp?content_id=870
- Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phthalates (for chemical definitions only)

© Manuela Hübner, 2007